Kheerganga Trek in December 2019

Trekking in Himalaya

Kheerganga Mountain summit (3050 m) in Himalayas ; which lies at the extreme end of Parvati Valley. It is a holy place with a hot water spring , a small temple of Lord Shiva and a bathing tank. It makes a rare combination for a trekker to take a bath in Hot Spring when everything else is covered with snow.

Not A Beginners Trek for sure

 How to reach :

• Reach Delhi from your hometown via flight/rail/bus

• Take Overnight bus direct to Kasol or reach Manali and spend few days there and take bus/ shuttle to Kasol.

• In Kasol spend the night in a base camp ( Book via any tour agency ).

• Next day reach Barshaini by private cab (arranged by tour groups ; 300 INR per head ). 
•  From Barshaini the trek of 12 km would start.

•  Spend the night in Kheerganga camp at the summit.

• Next day climb down the mountains back to Barshaini.

• Take cab from Barshaini to Kasol/Challal or any of your next destination.

Best Time to Visit:

• May-June

• September - October

What to carry:

• Trekking shoes
• Warm clothes
• Stick (Can rent at Barshaini )
• Water Bottle
• Dry fruits and chocolates
• Medicines

Expectations:

During peak seasons like May-June or  September-October the trek will be Intermediate one with steep slopes and waterfalls that needs to be crossed. In December be mentally prepared that you need to cover the last 5 km in snow; so wear proper shoes. Hence the same trek turns out to be difficult one in winter. Mid Jan to March end the trek remains closed.

My Experience :)

It was last week of December when we went to Kheerganga Mountain summit. From Kasol base camp we a team of 20 went to Barshaini to begin the on foot journey where we started our 12 KM trail around 9 am. We all reached Barshaini around 10 am and  then we had warm Maggie and a cup of Coffee which gives oxygen to our excited soul. We took sticks and kept our bags there and prepared ourselves for the new expedition.

We started our journey by crossing Parvati River. All excited souls were ready for the initial 7 km trek where we climbed up the mountain crossing Parvati river . It was extremely beautiful to walk amidst nature when nature was at it's best. The sun was right on the river and the blueish green color of Parvati river seemed like a paradise to a wanderlust soul.

Parvati River at start of Kheerganga Trek

Standing across Parvati River

We clicked some random pics and we started climbing up the Himalayas ! Initially there was a hell of excitement in all of our souls and the beauty of nature added more ecstasy in our journey towards exploring one side of nature.

We climbed through a trail of crunchy brown leaves fallen on the road, the sunlight streaming in beautiful angles. In a quiet moment I found some us stop in our tracks, somehow perplexed and taken aback at this unexpected view and then in almost incomprehensible way , a wave of emotions rides up on us. We can not imagine that such gifts of nature can be possible. 

The half gang

Slowly we crossed fountains and walked over villages. Temperature was 4 degrees but due to scorching heat of direct sunlight we started taking off our jackets in our bag and continued climbing.

Almost after an hour we reached the first village. Well there were only 3 shops where they can serve you with tea/coffee and warm water and biscuits. We did not stop for long as our guide kept on telling us to be fast as Himalayas was not so good when dark !😊

But then who does not love adventure ! I was very much looking for something that I could always count on as one of the most thrilling experiences till date and nevertheless it was just the beginning of the same.

After having a cup of hot coffee I really gained some instant energy which motivates me to reach the summit.

Well ! I have done hiking before but this one was very different especially in December end.

Trail we followed

The path was gradually becoming narrow but all we were looking for was more excitement and thrill. It gave us some great isolated views of surrounding mountains and we walked across small fountains and waterfall. We filled our water bottle from the fresh water of "jharna". 

Now it's just us and nature. Maybe after like half an hour or so we could see some people coming down from the summit ! Asking them about how it was they just said " Be strong and be Confident". Well words didn't seem of much importance to me until late :)

Empty Village

Around 2 pm we reached the village. By then we had almost crossed 6 km of the trek. And as we climbed the road was getting narrower. Some turns were really scary as if you see deep down you can see Parvati river but that would look like a thin line of water. So yes ! we were exhausted and hungry. 

We stopped by one of the shops in the village and had   "THUPKA" - A very special noodle soup; specialty of Himachal Pradesh. I took 3 Chocolates and put that inside my bag. There were some village boys who were selling apples; bought two from one. I must say that the apple was too yummy ! We crossed the village but to our surprise some part of it was even empty with empty broken houses with no trace of humanity.

Slowly a strange feeling crossed my mind ! It seems to me like a perfect English Thriller movie where a bunch of trekkers cross mountains and valleys and some Serial Killer on the way.

Well sure there was no Serial Killer but the rest was same. As you climb more you can just hear the wind; leaves making noises and our footsteps or the sound of waterfall. 

Excitement !

After 1 km we could see traces on snow on our trails and it was getting colder. I put on my jacket back and walked ahead. Slowly we were entering forest and maybe in some 30 mins yes it was kind of dense forest and max 2 feet trail where almost one feet is covered by snow. 

A sense of electrifying and soul-stirring sensation flew by my spinal cord and I felt yes ; The Adventure has begun!

It was almost 4 pm and we felt tired. Before we could realize we were already walking over snow and crossing mountains to reach our target. Sometimes trail was really becoming small and only one person can just cross that path.

Our guide, Vicky told us each of us to walk in a line holding each other's hands. He explained us the difference of "Kachhi" snow over new snow. Well in "kachhi" snow you feet can get dipped but one will not slip. So now we had to be very careful as the trail was now total snow with 1 feet max width allowing at a time only one person to walk .

Check the trail we walked :)

One thing which we were unaware of was "There is nothing called evening in mountains". So it's sunlight or completely dark. And before we could even realize that we have very less time of sunlight it was already dark. 

Our smiles turned into fear and we did not know what to do. The last 5km was total snow cladded trails and by then when it was 5 PM we just had crossed 2.5 km so half of the journey was left and it's dark and all we had are mobile phones to see the trail and to comprehend which path to avoid because of slippery snow.

I was carrying a torch and I thought this would be of some help if I can use it but.. as I was about turn the light on , our guide Vicky rushed to me over the snow explaining me that there are wild bears and fox in the jungle and light can disturb them or can draw their attention towards us.

Complete dark in between snow and dense forest

It was 5:30 PM ! Completely dark ! Mobile lights are our rescue. We were in mid of dense forest and all we could see in vicinity was just the guy, Ramesh walking in front of me and Gunjan, the girl from Maharashtra wasking behind me. I was unaware of who were where !

Yes I was scared ! Scared so much that at a point I felt I have a family for which I have to return back safely.

But then how could we seek any help from anyone as ofcourse there was no internet.

Vicky told us repeatedly not to fret or get scared as only what we needed that time the most was will power.

We started walking in a line along the ravine again

Just in few mins something really bad happened and it was just two guys before me; Rahul from madhya Pradesh. He slipped ! I could see him going straight to ditch. But Vicky just in aflick of second ran to him and pushed Rahul to Ramesh and Ramesh hold him with his right hand while still I was holding on his left. Pushing him Vicky felt and in one moment I thought we all were dead. I shouted like hell and then peach silence. In few seconds we saw him coming up ; he saved himself as he was carrying an axe with him. 

On My Gosh ! Is this adventure ? Or some life death trailer. That time we did not even know each other. But we all became friends. It was 7 pm. It was completely dark and we all helped each other and kept on walking and walking and walking up.....

It says " If you want to conquer the anxiety of life, live in the moment, live in the breath". - well that's what we all were doing. For me it was a journey of life and death. There was no turn back. Sometimes the thought like how we can get down next day as climbing down in snow trails of just a feet would really been scary . But that time only we thought was that we have to reach the summit.

Gunjan started a music on her mobile. Some old Bollywood songs. Those seem like drip of water to a thirsty soul. I have no idea what others felt but as for me it calmed me, soothe and placate my tiring soul.

One more km walk and imagine I saw even footprints of bear on snow. Now it's just "Kachhi" snow and all were looking for some light; some living creatures apart from us. And after an half and hour walk yes we could see lights far off and dogs barking though I understood it was far. But then we knew we had to reach that place; our night's camp.

It was -12 Degree at 8:30 pm when we reached the camp. Our shoes and socks were wet while crossing small waterfalls in dark and we did not even realize. We entered the big tent and it was a big silence. 

Inside camp at Kheerganga summit

 We opened our shoes and socks and went inside blanket. It was too much windy and chilling cold outside. Worn out and bone-tired we just finished our dinner. I wanted to pee and so after sometime I came out of the tent.

I looked up in the sky and to my surprise for a second I felt I have reached heaven . Often heard " Paradise is not a place but a feeling"- Well it's so much true! The sky is lit with so many stars which I have never encountered in my life before. It's Utopia! I had a strong feeling of some positive energy around me. There was no one. Wind and all dark except our slepeing tents. In far you can't see anything or hear except the sound of Wind! But a sense of Nirvana encompassed me!                                                                                                   

Exploring stars beautifully lit in the sky with Gunjan

Myself and Gunjan walked amidst nature gazing at the sky for sometime until we can't bear the cold anymore. Finally we went inside our tents.

The place where we spent that night was something like this ! Yell not like this but this only :)

Kheerganga Tent at Camp -14 degree (place where we spent the night)

 

I slept and next day woke up to witness one side of nature's beauty that rarely one can witness in life. Something that can't be expressed in words but can be felt and experienced !

I woke up in middle of snow and it was chilling cold and wind was really making sound that I can hear from inside the train. I came out of the tent and to my surprise I can see finally the Kheerganga mountain totally covered with snow.

Kheerganga Summit

The tents looked so colorful but I don't know how I survived in a small tent with "No Sleeping bag"; just 2 quilts per person at -15 degree. But the greatest achievement that time was that finally I made up to the summit.

Kheerganga Morning View

Isn't the picturesque really beautiful and full of serenity and tranquility ! well it was. The sky was blue with no trace of pollution anywhere. The other peaks looked so beautiful and mesmerizing.  The place is still more of virgin as very few tourists go there or rather this is place for only mountaineers or trekkers and not for some luxury travelers. One must be ready to survive in any situation.

    " SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST  "

Excitement and Tension at same time

 



After having breakfast and coffee we started our trek to get down; rather climb down which was hell not easy ! But to our surprise we took a different track while getting down. Again thanks to Vicky !
Well the first 2 km was Kacchi snow. So though my knees were almost betraying me but still I knew I had to get down and my family is waiting and I do not have a second choice here... 

And believe what !!! The entire 2 feet trail is fully covered with slippery snow. and it was a track of 5 kms before we could reach the non snow trail. :) So Vicky was using his axe to break ice and we all in a queue were following the same footsteps. All we needed that time is TRUST our guide, Vicky and PATIENCE and Believe in Almighty !

Lifetime experience!

This was an unedited pic. This was the trail we took for almost 5 kms to get down. Sometimes the fall was so steep and we crossed gorge and ravine ; sometimes waterfalls ; sometimes. 

To walk in nature is to witness some thousand Miracles!

Each fresh peak ascended taught me something; knowledge one can't acquire in books. 

Final feeling I got is " Let's wander where WIFI is weak; or say no Internet "😊

Finally after 3 km we reached a place to have some hot coffee which calmed our tensed anxious over excited soul. But Vicky called it Village ; well to me it's just one shop with some basic sitting facilities amidst nature with snow everywhere.

Coffee Time

I don't know whether this can be called a "Village" but yes it was very much required considering the track we would be heading . There was fear, excitement, happiness as well as a feeling of " Nothing " as we don't know where we are heading to ! It's full of risk but then who does not love ADVENTURE !

After hot coffee we continued our trail for another 6 km and finally around 5 pm we came back to Barshaini with filled memories and some untold experiences. Well life is indeed a climb and the view is indeed great. 

Sometimes in life we feel stuffs we can say as stories to our future generations. Well this was one of the same.

"The Biggest Adventure you ever take is to Live the Life of your Dreams 😇

Few Unforgettable clicks :)

Kheerganga from top

Tents where we spent night at top of Kheerganga

Sky is the Limit

Take every chance you get in life, because something happens only once.

- Debleena